Copenhagen 2015…Silver white winters that melt into spring…

…these are a few of our favorite things about Copenhagen.


Have humans developed a genetic adaptation that makes chocolate essential to our survival as a species?  How else would you explain $117 billion in global chocolate sales?

Peter Beier’s chocolate lounges have a delicious place in the Copenhagen landscape.

_DSC5404* * * * * * * * * *

The cacao originates from Beier’s own sustainable plantation in the Dominican Republic, as does the mango, lime, coconut and other tropical flavors he uses to infuse his confections.

38* * * * * * * * * * * * * *

The real Elixir of Love is the bubbling hot cocoa Chokolade calls “Nectar of the Aztecs.” If you’re tempted to photoshop yourself into this picture then you should visit Beier’s Ørsholt Estate  (just North of Copenhagen) and take his chocolate course to become your own Chocolatier for a day.


* * * * * * * * * * * * *


Once you’ve boosted your serotonin levels with 70% bittersweet you can burn off the calories the Danish way – pedal around the city where you have the right of way over cars.

Cykelmageren’s custom-made, handmade bikes are enough to make you brave the steep baggage fees imposed on bicycles by penny-pinching airlines.

_DSC5437God is in the details with figured wood handles, molded leather seats…

_DSC5420…and old-fashioned bells.

_DSC5417* * * * * * * * * * * * *


I’ve seen everything from pink stiletto heels to sequined mini-skirts streaking down Copenhagen streets. Ditch your spandex bicycle shorts and go native at Maritime Antiques & ( for men’s and women’s classic fisherman’s sweaters, striped Jerseys and yes, those indispensable suspenders.

_DSC5634_DSC5637Nautical Shop

* * * * * * * * * * * *


Speaking of a nautical theme, about 75,000 people fish in Denmark every year. They’re probably looking for something to eat besides herring in sour cream or herring in wine sauce, or herring in curry sauce or herring in…

I was sure these things below were gummy candies but the knowledgeable guys behind the counter at Jagt & Fiskerimagasinet (Hunting and Fishing Emporium) said these were gummy candy lures for Scandinavian fish.

_DSC5481* * * * * * * * * * * * *

The average Dane eats well over fifty pounds of fish a year, not counting what he catches with these pesky Swedish flies.

_DSC5483* * * * * * * * * * * * *


If you didn’t catch the big one, bike over to Kødbyens Fiskebar.  This isn’t the place to propose marriage or renew your vows with your Sugar Pie Honeybunch.  It’s strictly a tough love location: picnic tables are lumped together in a crumbling grey parking lot in the old meatpacking district. Yet somehow,  the first bite of ambrosia makes your eyes mist over and you forget where you are.

Raw Oysters served over sea pebbles.

_DSC5103* * * * * * * * * * *

Plaice (flounder) with fresh shucked peas.

_DSC5104* * * * * * * * * * * *

Scallops and chanterelle mushrooms

_DSC5108Okay, there is some seating inside if you get caught under a dark cloud.

* * * * * * * * * *


Just in case you’re not feeling fishy, Mother Pizza, a few doors down from Fiskebar, is the best of Italy in Copenhagen. Ditto, the parking lot grunge, but there’s also conventional seating indoors near the wood-fired pizza oven.

_DSC5587_DSC5590* * * * * * * * * * * * *

After biking, shopping, and eating a meal that makes you want to marry the chef, it’s time to find the music. Look for the July Jazz Festival, the August Opera Festival or the summer D.J. scene at harbor restaurants like Papirøen/Copenhagen Street Food or Toldboden.

If you’re looking for a moment of true transcendence, try the free concerts at Trinitas Church on Copenhagen’s walking street. Here’s the Theatre of Voices singing music by Estonian composer Arvo Pärt.